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Photography Tips

• USE THE FIBONACCI RATIOS

  If you're looking for a way to draw more attention to the crucial elements in your photographic composition, the Fibonacci Ratio offers a way to direct your viewers eye to the critical parts of your photo.
  
  When applied to photography, this ratio can produce aesthetically pleasing compositions that can be magnets for the human sub-conscious. When you take the sweet spot of the Fibonnaci Ratio and recreate it four times into a grid, you get what looks to be a rule of thirds grid. However, upon closer inspection you will see that this grid is not an exact splitting of the frame into three pieces. Instead of a 3 piece grid that goes 1+1+1=frame, you get a grid that goes 1+.618+1=frame.

• USE YOUR CAMERA'S TIMER

  If you don't have a tripod while taking pictures and can't hold the camera steady when you click the shutter release, try taking pictures with the timer on (set to something low, like 3 seconds). This helps a lot, as it lets me recover from the shake after clicking the shutter-release, and hold the camera steady.It's not a trick everyone needs, but for the twitchier among us, this is a great way to avoid shaking the camera when you press the shutter down.

• GET UP EARLY

  The light at dawn (and a few hours afterwards) is often the best of the day, so if you want your landscapes to have that magical look, you have to be prepared to wake up early. Before the sun heats up the land there is usually far less wind, so less chance of camera shake. There are fewer people around if you don't want them in your landscapes. Also, there is often mist (or frost in winter), which can add another dimension to your pictures. A few hours after dawn, contrast becomes a real problem and makes some shots harder to achieve, so set your alarm clock and get out there!
  
  I usually have my trip well planned beforehand, so that I can be in the right place at the right time. On dull days I may scout for locations, then return in more favourable conditions. I carry a sun compass, then I can work out where the sun will rise and set at different times of the year. Some of my best images have been planned several months beforehand..

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Poto Gear

• THE LENS

  Certain types of lenses are better for certain situations, so it's important to know their classifications and differences. The first thing worth noting is the difference between zoom lenses and prime lenses. Zoom lenses—as you can probably guess—let you zoom in and out. While they have that advantage, they're generally more expensive, heavier, and larger. Prime lenses, on the other hand, do not allow you to zoom, but they're often cheaper, lighter, and smaller. In many cases, prime lenses will provide sharper images than zoom lenses at lower price points. When you start paying thousands of dollars for lenses, lens performance tends to be a little more equal.

• WIDE-ANGLE LENS

  Wide-angle lenses are essentially any lenses with a focal length of up to 35mm. The wider the lens (and lower the focal length), the more the lens can see. Fisheye lenses are extremely wide and often have a rating of around 8-10mm. A regular wide-angle lens is generally around 14-28mm. They also distort space, increasing depth and making it look more spherical. This can be both a wanted and unwanted effect, depending on the circumstances. Some wide-angle lenses include technology that corrects this distortion, but those lenses are almost always significantly more expensive.

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